In the video series, ptc@home, Editor Dan Morrison (me) replaces the siding on his 1950s cape-style house. Because replacing the siding is a once-in-a-generation opportunity to improve the insulation in an old house SERIOUSLY, Dan (I) also added two inches of continuous exterior insulation—Styrofoam, in this case—to the outside of the walls.
I added Tyvek, sealed at window and door openings, as part of the air barrier system before adding two layers of Styrofoam, over which I added new TruExterior siding.
The continuous insulation retrofit process
- I removed the clapboard siding to reveal 1x6 T&G sheathing. The windows had been replaced from the inside and the original 1957 brick molding was intact.
- Removing it revealed a lucky break. 1x3 sub casing circumscribed the window and acted as the window stops for the tilt-in replacement windows installed recently.
- They also provide a continuous surface for flashing tape to seal off that window opening.
- I cut off the sill flush with the wall sheathing and sealed the sides and top with DuPont flashing tape.
- At the bottom, I installed a wide strip of [Flexi flash] tight to the replacement window and leaving the release sheet on the outer section.
- Now I installed Tyvek over the wall, cutting out at the windows.
- Sealing the edges to the flashing tape that seals the 1x3s around the opening.
- In this assembly, the Tyvek is really mostly for air control. The outer face of the Styrofoam will shed any water that gets behind the siding.
- Now the foam goes on.
- And the sill flashing tape can be folded down and stuck to the fact of the styrofoam.
- At the bottom of the wall is site-bent coil stock to keep the bugs out. The whole thing is covered with a rainscreen product called DrainVent.
- Finally, I added new exterior trim and siding from TrueExterior.
The result has been about a 40% drop in energy use and a lot fewer free weekends.
More videos about continuous exterior insulation: