Wood, tools, techniques, and safety tips to improve your woodworking and keep you safe
This video from Marie of DIY Montreal explains fifteen basic woodworking tips that touch on safety, wood types and characteristics, the efficiency of work, and the overall quality of woodworking.
Video transcript:
There are things in woodworking that you just sort of pick up along the way
Things that no one ever talks about because they're just so ingrained that they've become second nature.
Well, today I'm sharing 15 woodworking basics that I think every woodworker should know. So let's kick it off with number one:
Wood moves due to expansion and contraction
We've all brought home lumber that seemed perfectly straight at the store, only to find it warped and twisted a few days later. Inevitably, wood will want to move as it reacts to changes in its environment. Wood will want to swell when it's hot and humid, whereas it will want to contract and shrink when it's cold and dry. This is a cycle that will repeat season after season.
There are a couple of things we as woodworkers can do to help control this seasonal movement. Number one is to allow the wood to have room to move in our builds. For example, when fastening down a tabletop, you'll often see the use of Z-clips or figure-eight fasteners. This will allow the tabletop to expand and contract without restriction. Otherwise, if you screw it down too tight, the table is likely to crack over time.
Another thing that helps control the cycle of expansion and contraction is to apply a finish to the wood. By sealing it on all sides, it helps to minimize the exchange of moisture with the ambient air and therefore stabilizes the wood. So just remember to finish every side of a project, even the ones that no one will see.
Butt joints are weak
Butt joints are weak. Yes, butt joints. If you've ever tried to glue end grain to face grain, it probably didn't hold up for very long. Edge-to-edge glue-ups, on the other hand, like cutting boards or tabletops, are super solid. Glue alone is plenty strong to make a long-lasting joint, and no mechanical fasteners are required.
But when it comes to butt joints, glue just won't cut it. You'll want to use some sort of mechanical fastener to strengthen the joint, like pocket screws, dowels, or even biscuits. Or, if you prefer, you can try some more advanced joinery methods like finger joints or even dovetails. You'll end up with a much stronger joint that won't be an epic fail.
Lumber dimensions are nominal
Two-by-fours aren't actually two inches by four inches. They're actually one and a half by three and a half. Now, there's probably a whole history lesson I could give you on why two-by-fours aren't actually two-by-fours anymore. They used to be at one point, but not today.
We still use those nominal dimensions because the rough board was actually a two-by-four, but then it's been planed and smoothed down to its final dimensions. So while the final dimensions are a lot smaller, we still use the nominal dimensions as a reference.
The same applies to pretty much all the finished lumber that you'll buy. One-by-anything is actually three-quarters thick, whereas a two-by-eight, for example, is only seven and a quarter inches wide. So just keep in mind the nominal versus the actual dimensions when planning out your projects.
How to calculate board feet
Next up, understanding how to calculate board feet. Unlike softwoods that are sold as two-by-fours and two-by-sixes, hardwood is sold by the board foot. This typically applies to rough lumber. When you go to a lumber yard, they'll typically have a list price for every species they have, and the price will be listed in board foot.
For example, six dollars for a board foot of maple. Unlike softwoods, where you buy a two-by-four but only get a one and a half by three and a half, when you buy hardwoods, you'll actually get what you're paying for.
The math is actually quite simple once you understand how it works. One board foot is one foot wide by one foot long and an inch thick—12 by 12 by 1—that's a board foot.
So if you want to calculate for a board, for example, that's 36 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 1 inch thick, there's a simple formula to calculate it. Just convert everything to inches: 36 by 8 by 1. Multiply that all together and divide by 144, and you'll have the number of board feet.
So in this case, 36 by 8 by 1 is 288. Divided by 144, we have exactly two board feet. If you're wondering what two board feet look like, this is it. And that's how you calculate board feet.
Wear safety gear
No one wants to lose a finger or an eye, right? So, tie back that hair, roll up those sleeves, and leave your jewelry in the house. And generally speaking, don't wear gloves while operating large tools with spinning blades.
I take shop safety very seriously—not only the physical dangers like a table saw but also those invisible dangers that you don't necessarily see. That's why you'll always see me wearing ear muffs or noise-canceling headphones to protect my hearing, safety glasses to protect my eyes, and a dust mask to protect my lungs.
I like to wear a P100 respirator like this one, but a disposable N95 mask like this one will do the job too. By the way, you can get a sweet deal on safety glasses like these ones at Princess Auto—I think these were like three dollars.
And of course, always be mindful of what you're doing. If it doesn't feel safe, it probably isn't, so don't do it.
Cross-cutting on a table saw is dangerous
Speaking of safety, let's talk about the table saw for a second. The table saw is great for making all sorts of cuts, but there's one type of cut in particular that you never want to make on a table saw: cross-cutting against the fence.
This applies just as well to a 2x4 as it does to plywood. You want to avoid cutting a long, thin piece with the short side up against the fence. If you try to cut a board like this against the fence, there's a very good chance the board might twist and bind, causing kickback, where the offcut will come shooting back at you—or worse.
Instead, you can use a miter gauge or a crosscut sled to make this cut safely. Or just use your miter saw—that's basically what it's made for.
Measure twice, cut once
As the old adage says: measure twice, cut once. It may sound really basic, but when you're dealing with expensive hardwoods, making a mistake can be costly.
What I like to do is measure, then make a marking and draw my line using a square. Then, I'll measure again to the line to make sure I got that dimension just right. Measure twice, cut once.
Oh, and another tip: always buy a little extra lumber for any project you're making. In case you do make a mistake, you'll have a little extra on hand.
Cut the correct side of the line, not the middle of it
Another mistake some of us make when starting out is forgetting to account for the saw blade's kerf. What I mean is, when you make your cuts on the miter saw or the table saw, you may be inclined to line up that blade right on your line. But that's a mistake.
If you cut it that way, you'll end up too short on your measurements. Instead, the goal should be to line up the very tips of your blade with the outside of that line. That way, if you measured 18 inches, you'll end up with 18 inches.
After I've measured my cut, I like to make an "X" on the waste side of the line so I know which side of the line my blade needs to be on. Do it this way, and you'll get much more precise cuts.
Router direction is important
A router can be a really loud and intimidating tool to use, especially if you've never used one before. But there are simple feed direction rules to follow to use them safely.
When you're holding the router in hand with the bit facing downwards, the bit will spin in a clockwise direction, as is often indicated on the router's base plate. You want to feed the router against the bit's rotation and will therefore want to go in a counter-clockwise direction around your workpiece.
Now, if you're routing the inside of a frame, the opposite is true—you'll want to move the router clockwise. Think of it this way: if this was an individual board, you'd move the router counter-clockwise around the edges. But because you're moving from board to board and confined inside, this becomes a clockwise motion.
So just remember this for handheld routers: always go counter-clockwise around the outside of a board, but clockwise around any inside edges.
Hardwoods vs. softwoods
When first starting out in woodworking, you'll most likely have only been exposed to woods like pine and cedar that you see at Home Depot or Lowe's. But as you grow into woodworking, you'll learn that using hardwoods can produce not only better-looking pieces but also more resilient and longer-lasting ones.
Softwoods come from trees that have needles and are typically evergreen all year round. Hardwoods, on the other hand, come from trees with large leaves that typically fall off in the autumn. Unlike softwoods that grow really fast, hardwoods grow slowly, producing harder and denser wood.
Softwoods typically have more knots than hardwoods, and for those reasons, hardwoods are typically more expensive. Softwood examples include pine, spruce, and fir, whereas hardwoods include maple, oak, ash, walnut, and cherry.
Open grain vs closed grain
Speaking of lumber, let's talk about open grain versus closed grain. While I'm not an expert, here's what you need to know: when making cutting boards, spatulas, or any other items that will come in contact with food, you don't want to use open-grain woods.
A classic example of open-grain wood is oak. While oak may be beautiful for millwork or furniture, it's not suitable for cutting boards. Open-grain woods, like ash, have visible pores that soak up moisture and can harbor bacteria.
On the other hand, closed-grain woods like maple, walnut, and cherry are excellent choices for cutting boards. They have tight grains and resist absorbing moisture.
Rip cuts vs. cross-cuts
There are two main types of cuts in woodworking: rip cuts and crosscuts. Ripping a board means cutting with the grain, usually lengthwise, like cutting a wide board into thin strips.
Cross-cutting, on the other hand, is cutting across the wood fibers, like the cut you'd usually make on a miter saw when cutting a 2x4.
Picture the wood as if it were a broom: cutting lengthwise with the fibers is a rip cut, requiring minimal effort to separate the fibers. Cross-cutting, however, requires more effort as it cuts the fibers in half.
That's why there are different types of blades for each cut. A ripping blade has fewer, more aggressive teeth, while a crosscut blade has finer teeth for cleaner cuts. Personally, I use a combination blade for versatility.
Sanding is slow, boring, and important
When it comes to sanding, it's important not to skip through the grits too quickly. To avoid swirl marks, follow this simple rule: never increase grit by more than 50% between steps.
I typically start at 80 grit for rough lumber, then move to 120 (50% increase), then 180, and finally 220. I rarely go higher unless using epoxy. This means fully sanding the project four times until it's ready for finishing.
Bonus tip: drilling tips
When using screws, always drill pilot holes first, especially when drilling into the end of a board. Use a countersink bit to ensure consistent depth.
To avoid drilling too deep, wrap blue tape around the bit at the desired depth. This simple trick prevents blowouts and ensures a perfect depth every time.
And that's 15 woodworking basics! I'm sure I forgot some important ones, so let me know your thoughts in the comments.